the sight and peg the position of the upright posts. Uprights here are positioned
at 9"1 ft (2,73m), 11"36 ft (3,41m)
and 6"9 ft (2,07m) centers respectively, from
left to right.
the concrete and fill the PVC pipes. Set the "-8 inch
(20mm) pipe into the base of the wet concrete with the drilled end protruding.
Allow to set overnight.
5. Bore a hole by drilling into the base of each timber upright to accommodate the 8 inches (200mm) pipe. Drill a hole through the upright, "-8 inch (20mm) from its base, using a "-24 inch (6mm) wood bit.
6. Slot the uprights over the protruding "-8 inch (20mm) pipes, aligning the pre-drilled holes. This should leave about 2 inches (50mm) of the pipe exposed between the bottom of the timber and the upper surface of the concrete. Brace the uprights with scrap timber and bolt through the pre-drilled timber and pipe. Cut off protruding section of bolts with a hacksaw.
7. Cut 1"32 inch (33mm) x "-4 inch (10mm) grooves in all six uprights, 13"4 inch (335mm) from the upper end. Slot front support pieces between the uprights and secure by screwing from outer plane with 3"6 inch (90mm) screws.
8. Now secure the front beams using two cuphead bolts for each upright. Cut off protruding section of bolts with a hacksaw.
9. Measure 9"16 ft (2,75m) form ground level and mark on the existing fasciaboard. Screw flat iron brackets to one end of each roof beam. Now mark the position of each beam on the fascia, ensuring they are evenly spaced. Screw to the fascia using 3 inch (75mm) long screws. Note that the lower section of each beam should be positioned at the 9"16 ft (2,75m) mark. Skew nail the front end to the front beams with wire nails. There should be a 12 inches (300mm) overhang.
10. Position one length of beading or quarter-round on the underside of the front beam, and another on the upper surface of the front supporting timber. Position timber for trelliswork so that it crisscrosses and secure with panel pins against the beading. Then secure by affixing a second length of beading or quarter-round against it, top and bottom.
11. Cut out the decorative quadrants and screw to the structure with wedges between the quadrant and structural timber.
12. Cut the shade cloth with a soldering iron. Pull taut over the structure, leaving about a 4 inch (100mm) flap at each end. Staple, or use 1"6 inch (40mm) nails to tack to the beams. Roll the loose ends of the shade cloth around cover strip and affix to the beams with 3 inch (75mm) nails.
13. Finally make the roller blind. Attach one end to the curtain rod using staples or 1"6 inch (40mm) nails. Affix the shade cloth to the endbeam ensuring that the curtain rod is parallel to the endbeam ensuring that the curtain rod is parallel to the ground. Since the beams slope slightly from the fascia to the front of the structure, the material will need to be cut an an angle. Use a soldering iron to do this once it is in place. Nail cover strip over the shade cloth, along the beam using 1"6 inch (40mm) nails.
14. At each end of the beam to which the blind is attached, screw two eyes, one on each side. Screw two more eyes to the inside of the upright post, one at the top and the other halfway down. Tie a length of rope securely to each of the two outside eyes. Then string them under the curtain rod and up to the two inside eyes. Run the rope which is attached to the eye nearest the house along the beam and through the other eye. Run both lengths of rope together through the eyes on the upright posts to enable you to roll it up and down. Screw the hook to the upright post at a convenient position.
BY THE WAY...
You can make a Pergola with above instructions as well. To view the intructions of the Pergola, click on the image below.